Festival season & Oasis mania - 48 h in Edinburgh

Only some days after returning from a most memorable mid-August weekend in the Scottish capital with our dear friend Kasia Syty in tow, we gather some thoughts in a quick guide to the city. While not our first visit to the city, it had certainly been a minute since the last. Just moments after landing, we were plesantly reminded of the Scottish hospitality and warmth that we so often miss back home. Stretching a smile to a stranger won't kill you, d'you know what I mean? The entire weekend was marked by a strange air of "the power of manifestation" - ask and you shall receive. And receive we did in abundance. Synchronizing our visit with the city's very busy cultural calendar, there were more ongoing festivals than what one could possibly muster in one weekend (Edinburgh Fringe, Edinburgh International Book Festival, Edinburgh Art Festival - and a handful of others just around the corner...).

Highlights: American comedian Cat Cohen's stand-up meets cabaret show Broad Strokes (had us laughing from beginning to end) at Edinburgh Fringe and Katie Kitamura's talk with Adam Biles (brilliantly chaired) at Edinburgh International Book Festival (we lucked out).

Disclaimer: Our primary mission for the weekend and the main reason for visiting was to attend the Oasis 25' reunion tour. With three sold-out dates (estimated 70 000 fans per night) Oasis mania was just about everywhere . On window displays ("Don't look back in hanger" offered fast-food chain Nando's), trash cans, fans sporting the official Adidas x Oasis merch on the streets (impossible to get hold of - we tried), even trucks seemed to carry the word "oasis". We won't go into the further details about the concert here, but it felt like one of those rare "you had to be there" moments.

With no time to waste on Friday afternoon, we went straight for The Modern, the contemporary art spaces of National Galleries of Scotland. Divided in two buildings and located within only a stone's throw away from one another, Modern One holds an impressive permanent collection with works on view by the likes of Lucian Freud, Helen Frankenthaler and 2024 Turner Prize winner Jasleen Kaur. Overlooking a lush sculptural garden with works by Dan Graham and Nathan Coley, Modern Two currently has a major temporary photography exhibition titled Resistance (runs until January 4, 2026) co-curated by no other than acclaimed film director/artist Steve McQueen (together with Clarrie Wallis and Emma Lewis). Generously bringing various historical protest movements in the UK to the fore, while nothing new under sun, served as a reminder of why numbers matter, and the importance of showing up. Kudos to McQueen for relentlessly doing the work, so to speak.

A most pleasant surprise this weekend was trailblazing artist Linder's ongoing gorgeous retrospective Danger Came Smiling at the Royal Botanical Garden (runs until October 19, 2025 - free admission). A shoutout of gratitude to our artist friend Agnieszka Abramowicz for pointing us towards it (would easily have passed our radar). While also extending to the outdoors gardens, the show is predominantly located inside Inverleith House Gallery which sits on top of a hill with a breathtaking view of the surroundings. Danger Came Smiling encompasses some of her most iconic works including some personal favorites and even early series of works dating back to her pre-collage-era. Make it a must if visiting anytime soon.

Another gem of a place is Talbot Rice Gallery, the public art gallery of the University of Edinburgh located in the heart of Old Town. Founded in 1975 and thus celebrating its 50th anniversary this year, the gallery is named after David Talbot Rice, a late British art historian who specialized in Byzantine and Islamic art. Hence the current show (runs until September 28, 2025) with Egyptian artist Wael Shawky sits perfectly in the programme. Revolving around two video works of which one, Drama 1882, was commissioned for the Egyptian Pavilion at the 60th Venice Biennale in 2024, the show also presents props from the films including puppets made in Murano glass and artifacts from the the university archives. A potential contender for our annual Best Exhibitions of the Year list later in the year.

• Where to eat and drink: Montrose

The sister of Michelin-starred Timberyard, Montrose is a dreamy little neighborhood restaurant/wine bar where the food and service is not only excellent but of exceptionally good value (set menus are offered on weekends at prices ranging from £25-30).

• Where to to go for local cuisine: MUMS Great Comfort Food

Fancy some traditional haggis or sheperd's pie? This is the place in the heart of Old Town - with vegeterian options.

• Where to get books: Lighthouse

Located just a few minutes away from MUMS, and in front of the Edinburgh Central Mosque (set with its own kitchen), is Lighthouse - Edinburgh's radical bookshop. Possibly one of the best bookstores we've ever visited. A dream for queer, political and feminist literature. Merited two visits.